A complete video capture of forging a kitchen utility knife from W2 steel. This was 6mm stock which I normally forge under the power hammer but there are plenty of people who don't have those. So I did it the long way... I think one of the most important things I have come to learn is that to keep the proportions of the blade where you want them the whole blade has to arrive at the point of completion at the same time. What does that mean? I don't forge the blade too close to its final size without also doing some work on the tang. When the blade is half way finished so too should be the tang. I think this principal would apply to almost any blade. If you complete the tang first then try the blade you get problems with the transition on the spine from tang to blade. There are a few simple things you can do that can make forging a kitchen knife a little easier. Notice how I cut my beginning stock at an angle, this way I don't have to forge the stock back into itself (which would make it thicker) and then fight to correct the fish mouth or birds beak problem. I also hot cut a little notch in to the tang end which creates a step that you can seat the stock against when breaking down the tang. To be honest I should have hot cut the stock off the bar with its angles from the get go for a better demonstration. If you don't have a hot cut tool you could use the angle grinder to cut yourself a step easy enough. Theres 100 ways to forge a blade this is one.

W2 from Artisan Supplies: https://www.artisansupplies.com.au/product-category/knife-making-supplies/knife-and-blade-steels/tool-steels/w1w2/?c=22783a5940ef

The dog head hammer you may or may not be able to see me using was made by the illustrious Bruce Beamish. Bruce is a seller of power hammers here in Australia and I gotta say makes a damn fine hammer himself. https://anyangaustralia.com.au/

If you would like to learn how to forge a knife let me know, I teach classes.